ATVPT
All Terrain Vehicle Product Tests ATV Technical Magazine
Swing Arm Bearing Replacement
Machines: - Suzuki Twin Peaks 700, also similar: Kawasaki Prairie 300,360,400,650,700, V-Force 700
Submitted By: - Jody Robinson (JR)
If you haven’t replaced your swingarm bearings and seals yet, you may want to think about doing that as preventative maintenance. Mine lasted less than 2,000 miles. Others have said that there Kawasaki’s lasted much less, one person claimed that he rode his machine only 700 miles before his bearings were toast. If they get too far gone, you can do some very expensive damage to the driveline and swingarm housing. If you ride in the mud a lot, here is a pic of what your old bearings and seals look probably like.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/01.jpg)
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/02.jpg)
The exploded view below is a page out of the Suzuki Twin Peaks 700 Manual. This is very similar to other models as well, including the Kawasaki Prairie 300, 360, 400, 650, and 700. Also similar is the Kawasaki 700 V-force.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/03.jpg)
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/04.jpg)
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/05.jpg)
PARTS:
1. Bearings. Don’t buy OEM, they are too expensive and there are many identical alternatives, such as the All Balls Bearing and Seal Kit. It is an excellent value and includes OEM type seals for about the same price as you can find bearings alone. You can also purchase the tapered roller bearings (part# 30203) at your local auto parts store. They are pretty common, and usually 8$ to 15$ each, depending on the brand and where you find them.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/06.jpg)
2. OEM Seals. There are several alternative’s to the OEM seals. I am not too fond of the sealing arrangement design from Kawasaki. It is a rather plain lip seal with no garter spring. The ones shown below are the ones from All Balls and they are identical to the OEM.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/07.jpg)
3. Alternative Seals. TCM part# 26x40x5TC. These are a little thicker than the OEM’s but I think they offer much better sealing. They are a double lip seal with a garder spring and only 5mm thick. Most aftermarket seals are 7mm thick and that’s too wide and they protrude from the housing. They cost 3 or 4 bucks apiece and your local bearing distributor or you might get lucky at an auto parts store. It is best to install these into the housing with the garder spring facing outwards. The collar will protect them fairly well
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/08.jpg)
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/09.jpg)
4. Sealing Collars from Suzuki or Kawasaki (part # 92152A). You may be able to re-use these, but mine was hammered. New collar on the left, old one on the right. This collar is what your main seal rides on, so if it’s not perfect, replace it. They are about 5$ each. It’s a good idea to go ahead and order these a week or so in advance to have them on hand if you need them.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/10.jpg)
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/11.jpg)
5. O-ring seals. These “seal” between the collar and the pivot bolt. Might as well get 2 when you order the collars, 2$ each. Suzuki or Kaw part# 670. They are 16mm diameter if you want to try and find a match, I don’t know the cross sectional thickness.
6. V-ring seals. SKF part# V-25, CR Part# 400250. These are not included in the OEM assembly. These are just a little added insurance that place another lip seal in the gap between the swingarm and frame on each side. They are 5$each.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/12.jpg)
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/13.jpg)
TOOLS and MATERIALS LIST:
1. Slide hammer with a 3 jaw internal arm attachment. This tool is crucial for doing this job the easy way. It makes getting the races out of the swingarm a 10 second job and allows you to leave the drive shaft assembled in the swingarm. If you are not very careful, removing the drive shaft could allow contaminants to enter the rear diff and believe me, you don’t want a roller bearing floating around in there. Borrow one if you can, it can be a little pricey if you buy one, but it can also be used for many other things. If a slide hammer isn’t an option, you must remove the drive shaft from the swingarm to knock out the races from the inside.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/14.jpg)
2. 30mm socket, at least ½” drive (the smaller OD the better).
3. Power Handle and 3’ piece of pipe for a cheater bar for above socket
4. Torque wrench capable of 14.6 ft/lbs. and 100 ft/lbs.
5. 12mm hex socket that fits above torque wrench (to remove and re-torque item 33032 in above exploded view).
6. Adapter to make the 30mm socket fit your torque wrench.
7. The usual hand tools: #2 Phillips screwdriver, 8mm, 10mm wrenches, 3/8” drive ratchet and metric sockets. Vise grips, pliers, large straight screwdriver (for prying).
8. Brake cleaner
9. Molybdenum Disulfide (moly) Grease, Marine grade trailer grease will also work.
10. Anti-seize
11. Floor Jack
12. Cinderblocks and blocks of wood to support the frame.
13. A second pair of hands makes the job much easier.
14. OPTIONAL: 0.010” thick brass shim stock and silicone RTV.
Note: other tools can be substituted and improvised, but these make the job so much easier.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/15.jpg)
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/16.jpg)
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/17.jpg)
There is an easy and a hard way to replace these bearings. If you just want to replace the bearings for preventative maintenance, or your bearings haven’t started loosing the rollers out of the bearings, you can do this the easy way and leave the shock mounted to the swingarm and just slide the swingarm back far enough to access the bearings. I got to give credit to Ken Robey and Jody Brooks for this method. Mine required full dis-assembly so I didn’t go this route, but man is this way easier. It’s a 30 minute to an hour job if you have a slide hammer.
If you are like unlucky and end up damaging the swingarm housing bore ( like I did ) this job can be much tougher. I was 5 miles out on a rough trail before the bearings disintegrated without warning and I checked the swingarm for play before the ride. I had to limp back to the trailer, but by the time I got back, the right side housing had been enlarged by the retainer bolt slapping around in there. See the hard way for more details on what to do if this happens.
THE EASY WAY:
(The swingarm bearing housing is not damaged)
PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the lower rear plastic and floorboards.
2. Disconnect both rear break lines and vent tube from the swingarm.
3. Put a piece of tape over the vent to exclude contaminants.
4. Remove the 2 rear hose clamps that hold the axle shaft boot.
5. Slide the boot off the engine toward the swingarm.
6. Leave the rear shock and tires ATTATCHED!
7. Break the 30mm nut (92210) loose with the power handle and cheater bar. Also break loose the right pivot-bolt (33032A). Don’t remove them yet.
8. It’s easier to work if you can safely raise the whole machine up on a lift. Raise the rear end as high as possible, and support the machine under the engine on the frame, leaving the rear tires unsupported. Chock the front wheels for added stability.
9. Use a hydraulic floor jack to gently support the front of the swingarm housing.
10. Remove the left axle-bolt (33032) and the right axle-bolt (33032A).
11. Have your assistant grab the tires and wiggle the swingarm back away from the frame SLOWLY while you pry the axle yolk from the output shaft of the motor. Make sure the axle shaft comes off WITH the swingarm and does not pull out of the rear diff.
12. Be ready to catch the front of the swingarm when the axle slips off the engine output shaft.
13. Wire or tie the axle shaft to keep it engaged into the diff.
14. Remove the collars (92152A), O-rings (670), seals (92049), and bearings (92116).
15. Clean up the bearing housing bore with break cleaner and paper towels.
16. Remove the outer races from the swingarm with a slide hammer with the internal 3-arm set-up and skip to step 18.
17. If a slide hammer isn’t available, drain the rear diff oil. Clean the inside of the swingarm in the axle area as good as possible without removing the axle from the rear diff. Tilt the swingarm down and catch the runoff in a pan. Plan on using a whole can of brake cleaner and squirting around the axle as good as you can. Here is a peek inside the swingarm looking toward the diff. with the axle removed.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/18.JPG)
18. Pull out the axle.
19. Find a ½” drive socket whose OD is approximately 1 3/8”. It
has to be small enough to clear the inside step in the swingarm housing, but large enough to contact the outer race. You will also need a ½” extension approximately 18” long to reach thru the swingarm.
20. Knock out the race by tapping on the extension with a hammer and repeat for the other side.
21. Clean out the entire inside swingarm area as good as possible, and also clean up the pivot shaft bolts. Inspect the collars (92152A) and replace them if necessary.
22. OPTIONAL- It is possible for debris to enter the bearing from inside the swingarm housing. I blocked this off by cutting some .010” thick brass shim stock into a disk and sealing it to the housing with silicone RTV. Others have reported that a Honda bearing cap will also work, but the shim stock is a little thinner and it doesn’t rob as much room in the bearing housing, so that’s what I used.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/19.JPG)
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/20.JPG)
23. Tap in the new races, seat them fully against the housing. If you are doing step 23, seat the race quickly before the RTV cures.
24. Pack the bearings well with some molly (molybdenum disulfide) or marine grade grease. Pack all voids in the seals and install the collar into the seal. Wipe of excess grease from the collar and seal assembly. Locate the bearing in the housing, followed by the o-ring and then seat the seal into the housing. The o-ring is captured by the collar and held in place.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/21.JPG)
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/22.JPG)
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/23.JPG)
25. Coat the pivot bolts with anti-seize and set them close to the frame.
26. Slide the swingarm assembly back into its Normal position and slip the V-ring seals (optional) between the collar and the frame on each side. Orient the V-ring where the sealing lip touches the seal collar and not the frame.
27. Carefully align the bearing bore with the threaded hole in the frame. Tighten the pivot bolts, making sure that they seat into the bearing bore, otherwise they will just push the swingarm assembly over.
28. Tighten the right side pivot bolt to 112 ft-lbs.
29. Tighten the left pivot bolt (12mm Hex ) to 14 ft-lbs? can’t remember see manual.
30. Tighten the lock nut to 112 ft/lbs.
31. Clean any residual grease that may reside around the v-ring seals without violating the seal. Use caution when directing the blast from a brake cleaner can so that it doesn’t undermine the seal and wash out the grease trapped inside the V-ring. Don’t hit it full-blast.
32. Reconnect the fenders, floorboards, brake lines and vent tube.
33. Re-fill rear diff if necessary.
34. Ride.
THE HARD WAY:
(The swingarm bearing housing is damaged)
TOOLS and MATERIALS LIST:
1. All of the tools and materials used in the “easy way” .
2. Wire brush.
3. Metal epoxy such as JB Weld.
4. Dremel tool with fine grit sanding drums.
PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the lower rear plastic and floorboards.
2. Disconnect both rear break lines and vent tube from the swingarm.
3. Put a piece of tape over the vent to exclude contaminants.
4. Remove the 2 rear hose clamps that hold the axle shaft boot.
5. Slide the boot off the engine toward the swingarm.
6. Leave the tires attatched.
7. Break the 30mm nut (92210) loose with the power handle and cheater bar. Also break loose the right pivot-bolt (33032A). Don’t remove them yet.
8. Raise the machine up to where the rear tires are just off the ground and securely support the quad on it’s frame just ahead of the swingarm boot. Chock the front wheels for added stability.
9. Use a hydraulic floor jack to gently support the rear of the swingarm housing. It will also help to ratchet strap the diff to the jack to aid in moving the swingarm around.
10. Remove the lower shock bolt
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/24.JPG)
11. Remove the left axle-bolt (33032) and the right axle-bolt (33032A).
12. Have your assistant grab the tires and wiggle the swingarm back away from the frame SLOWLY while you pry the axle yolk from the output shaft of the motor. Make sure the axle shaft comes off WITH the swingarm and does not pull out of the rear diff.
13. Be ready to catch the front of the swingarm when the axle slips off the engine output shaft.
14. Wire or tie the axle shaft to keep it engaged into the diff.
15. Remove the collars (92152A), O-rings (670), seals (92049), and bearings (92116).
16. Clean up the bearing housing bore with break cleaner and paper towels.
17. Remove the outer races from the swingarm with a slide hammer with the internal 3-arm set-up Skip to step 24.
18. Drain the rear diff oil.
19. If a slide hammer isn’t available, clean the inside of the swingarm in the axle area as good as possible without removing the axle from the rear diff. Tilt the swingarm down and catch the runoff in a pan. Plan on using a whole can of brake cleaner and squirting around the axle as good as you can. Here is a peek inside the swingarm looking toward the diff. with the axle removed.
20. Pull out the axle.
21. Find a ½” drive socket whose OD is approximately 1 3/8”. It has to be small enough to clear the inside step in the swingarm housing, but large enough to contact the outer race. You will also need a ½” extension approximately 18” long to reach thru the swingarm.
22. Knock out the race by tapping on the extension with a hammer and repeat for the other side.
23. Clean out the entire inside swingarm area as good as possible, and also clean up the pivot shaft bolts. Inspect the collars (92152A) and replace them if necessary.
24. I was lucky because the area of my bearing housing was only damaged in the area outboard of the bearing, where the seal resides.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/25.JPG)
25. Clean this area thoroughly by wire brush and brake cleaner.
26. Repair the bore with metal epoxy, such as J B Weld and insert a lightly greased new seal into the bore to ensure a smooth finish. A lightly greased outer race may also be used if you need to re-surface a large area, just beware that it’s going to be harder to remove after the epoxy cures. Don’t worry about excess epoxy squeezing out. Alloy it to dry at least the time recommended by the epoxy manufacturer. I would even suggest leaving it overnight at this point.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/26.JPG)
27. Remove the seal (or outer race) and clean up the excess material with a Dremel tool and fine grit sanding disc.
![[image]](http://www.atvpt.com/TechTips/SwingArm/27.JPG)
28. OPTIONAL- It is possible for debris to enter the bearing from inside the swingarm housing. I blocked this off by cutting some .010” thick brass shim stock into a disk and sealing it to the housing with silicone RTV. Others have reported that a Honda bearing cap will also work, but the shim stock is a little thinner and it doesn’t rob as much room in the bearing housing, so that’s what I used.
29. Tap in the new races, seat them fully against the housing. If you are doing step 23, seat the race quickly before the RTV cures.
30. Pack the bearings well with some molly (molybdenum disulfide) or marine grade grease. Pack all voids in the seals and install the collar into the seal. Wipe of excess grease from the collar and seal assembly. Locate the bearing in the housing, followed by the o-ring and then seat the seal into the housing. The o-ring is captured by the collar and held in place.
31. Coat the pivot bolts with anti-seize and set them close to the frame.
32. Slide the swingarm assembly back into its Normal position and slip the V-ring seals (optional) between the collar and the frame on each side. Orient the V-ring where the sealing lip touches the seal collar and not the frame.
33. Carefully align the bearing bore with the threaded hole in the frame. Tighten the pivot bolts, making sure that they seat into the bearing bore, otherwise they will just push the swingarm assembly over.
34. Tighten the right side pivot bolt to 112 ft-lbs.
35. Tighten the left pivot bolt (12mm Hex ) to 14 ft-lbs? can’t remember see manual.
36. Tighten the lock nut to 112 ft/lbs.
37. Clean any residual grease that may reside around the v-ring seals without violating the seal. Use caution when directing the blast from a brake cleaner can so that it doesn’t undermine the seal and wash out the grease trapped inside the V-ring. Don’t hit it full-blast.
38. Reconnect the fenders, floorboards, brake lines and vent tube.
39. Re-fill rear diff if necessary.
40. Ride.
Submitted By: - Jody Robinson (JR)
If you haven’t replaced your swingarm bearings and seals yet, you may want to think about doing that as preventative maintenance. Mine lasted less than 2,000 miles. Others have said that there Kawasaki’s lasted much less, one person claimed that he rode his machine only 700 miles before his bearings were toast. If they get too far gone, you can do some very expensive damage to the driveline and swingarm housing. If you ride in the mud a lot, here is a pic of what your old bearings and seals look probably like.
The exploded view below is a page out of the Suzuki Twin Peaks 700 Manual. This is very similar to other models as well, including the Kawasaki Prairie 300, 360, 400, 650, and 700. Also similar is the Kawasaki 700 V-force.
PARTS:
1. Bearings. Don’t buy OEM, they are too expensive and there are many identical alternatives, such as the All Balls Bearing and Seal Kit. It is an excellent value and includes OEM type seals for about the same price as you can find bearings alone. You can also purchase the tapered roller bearings (part# 30203) at your local auto parts store. They are pretty common, and usually 8$ to 15$ each, depending on the brand and where you find them.
2. OEM Seals. There are several alternative’s to the OEM seals. I am not too fond of the sealing arrangement design from Kawasaki. It is a rather plain lip seal with no garter spring. The ones shown below are the ones from All Balls and they are identical to the OEM.
3. Alternative Seals. TCM part# 26x40x5TC. These are a little thicker than the OEM’s but I think they offer much better sealing. They are a double lip seal with a garder spring and only 5mm thick. Most aftermarket seals are 7mm thick and that’s too wide and they protrude from the housing. They cost 3 or 4 bucks apiece and your local bearing distributor or you might get lucky at an auto parts store. It is best to install these into the housing with the garder spring facing outwards. The collar will protect them fairly well
4. Sealing Collars from Suzuki or Kawasaki (part # 92152A). You may be able to re-use these, but mine was hammered. New collar on the left, old one on the right. This collar is what your main seal rides on, so if it’s not perfect, replace it. They are about 5$ each. It’s a good idea to go ahead and order these a week or so in advance to have them on hand if you need them.
5. O-ring seals. These “seal” between the collar and the pivot bolt. Might as well get 2 when you order the collars, 2$ each. Suzuki or Kaw part# 670. They are 16mm diameter if you want to try and find a match, I don’t know the cross sectional thickness.
6. V-ring seals. SKF part# V-25, CR Part# 400250. These are not included in the OEM assembly. These are just a little added insurance that place another lip seal in the gap between the swingarm and frame on each side. They are 5$each.
TOOLS and MATERIALS LIST:
1. Slide hammer with a 3 jaw internal arm attachment. This tool is crucial for doing this job the easy way. It makes getting the races out of the swingarm a 10 second job and allows you to leave the drive shaft assembled in the swingarm. If you are not very careful, removing the drive shaft could allow contaminants to enter the rear diff and believe me, you don’t want a roller bearing floating around in there. Borrow one if you can, it can be a little pricey if you buy one, but it can also be used for many other things. If a slide hammer isn’t an option, you must remove the drive shaft from the swingarm to knock out the races from the inside.
2. 30mm socket, at least ½” drive (the smaller OD the better).
3. Power Handle and 3’ piece of pipe for a cheater bar for above socket
4. Torque wrench capable of 14.6 ft/lbs. and 100 ft/lbs.
5. 12mm hex socket that fits above torque wrench (to remove and re-torque item 33032 in above exploded view).
6. Adapter to make the 30mm socket fit your torque wrench.
7. The usual hand tools: #2 Phillips screwdriver, 8mm, 10mm wrenches, 3/8” drive ratchet and metric sockets. Vise grips, pliers, large straight screwdriver (for prying).
8. Brake cleaner
9. Molybdenum Disulfide (moly) Grease, Marine grade trailer grease will also work.
10. Anti-seize
11. Floor Jack
12. Cinderblocks and blocks of wood to support the frame.
13. A second pair of hands makes the job much easier.
14. OPTIONAL: 0.010” thick brass shim stock and silicone RTV.
Note: other tools can be substituted and improvised, but these make the job so much easier.
There is an easy and a hard way to replace these bearings. If you just want to replace the bearings for preventative maintenance, or your bearings haven’t started loosing the rollers out of the bearings, you can do this the easy way and leave the shock mounted to the swingarm and just slide the swingarm back far enough to access the bearings. I got to give credit to Ken Robey and Jody Brooks for this method. Mine required full dis-assembly so I didn’t go this route, but man is this way easier. It’s a 30 minute to an hour job if you have a slide hammer.
If you are like unlucky and end up damaging the swingarm housing bore ( like I did ) this job can be much tougher. I was 5 miles out on a rough trail before the bearings disintegrated without warning and I checked the swingarm for play before the ride. I had to limp back to the trailer, but by the time I got back, the right side housing had been enlarged by the retainer bolt slapping around in there. See the hard way for more details on what to do if this happens.
(The swingarm bearing housing is not damaged)
PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the lower rear plastic and floorboards.
2. Disconnect both rear break lines and vent tube from the swingarm.
3. Put a piece of tape over the vent to exclude contaminants.
4. Remove the 2 rear hose clamps that hold the axle shaft boot.
5. Slide the boot off the engine toward the swingarm.
6. Leave the rear shock and tires ATTATCHED!
7. Break the 30mm nut (92210) loose with the power handle and cheater bar. Also break loose the right pivot-bolt (33032A). Don’t remove them yet.
8. It’s easier to work if you can safely raise the whole machine up on a lift. Raise the rear end as high as possible, and support the machine under the engine on the frame, leaving the rear tires unsupported. Chock the front wheels for added stability.
9. Use a hydraulic floor jack to gently support the front of the swingarm housing.
10. Remove the left axle-bolt (33032) and the right axle-bolt (33032A).
11. Have your assistant grab the tires and wiggle the swingarm back away from the frame SLOWLY while you pry the axle yolk from the output shaft of the motor. Make sure the axle shaft comes off WITH the swingarm and does not pull out of the rear diff.
12. Be ready to catch the front of the swingarm when the axle slips off the engine output shaft.
13. Wire or tie the axle shaft to keep it engaged into the diff.
14. Remove the collars (92152A), O-rings (670), seals (92049), and bearings (92116).
15. Clean up the bearing housing bore with break cleaner and paper towels.
16. Remove the outer races from the swingarm with a slide hammer with the internal 3-arm set-up and skip to step 18.
17. If a slide hammer isn’t available, drain the rear diff oil. Clean the inside of the swingarm in the axle area as good as possible without removing the axle from the rear diff. Tilt the swingarm down and catch the runoff in a pan. Plan on using a whole can of brake cleaner and squirting around the axle as good as you can. Here is a peek inside the swingarm looking toward the diff. with the axle removed.
18. Pull out the axle.
19. Find a ½” drive socket whose OD is approximately 1 3/8”. It
has to be small enough to clear the inside step in the swingarm housing, but large enough to contact the outer race. You will also need a ½” extension approximately 18” long to reach thru the swingarm.
20. Knock out the race by tapping on the extension with a hammer and repeat for the other side.
21. Clean out the entire inside swingarm area as good as possible, and also clean up the pivot shaft bolts. Inspect the collars (92152A) and replace them if necessary.
22. OPTIONAL- It is possible for debris to enter the bearing from inside the swingarm housing. I blocked this off by cutting some .010” thick brass shim stock into a disk and sealing it to the housing with silicone RTV. Others have reported that a Honda bearing cap will also work, but the shim stock is a little thinner and it doesn’t rob as much room in the bearing housing, so that’s what I used.
23. Tap in the new races, seat them fully against the housing. If you are doing step 23, seat the race quickly before the RTV cures.
24. Pack the bearings well with some molly (molybdenum disulfide) or marine grade grease. Pack all voids in the seals and install the collar into the seal. Wipe of excess grease from the collar and seal assembly. Locate the bearing in the housing, followed by the o-ring and then seat the seal into the housing. The o-ring is captured by the collar and held in place.
25. Coat the pivot bolts with anti-seize and set them close to the frame.
26. Slide the swingarm assembly back into its Normal position and slip the V-ring seals (optional) between the collar and the frame on each side. Orient the V-ring where the sealing lip touches the seal collar and not the frame.
27. Carefully align the bearing bore with the threaded hole in the frame. Tighten the pivot bolts, making sure that they seat into the bearing bore, otherwise they will just push the swingarm assembly over.
28. Tighten the right side pivot bolt to 112 ft-lbs.
29. Tighten the left pivot bolt (12mm Hex ) to 14 ft-lbs? can’t remember see manual.
30. Tighten the lock nut to 112 ft/lbs.
31. Clean any residual grease that may reside around the v-ring seals without violating the seal. Use caution when directing the blast from a brake cleaner can so that it doesn’t undermine the seal and wash out the grease trapped inside the V-ring. Don’t hit it full-blast.
32. Reconnect the fenders, floorboards, brake lines and vent tube.
33. Re-fill rear diff if necessary.
34. Ride.
(The swingarm bearing housing is damaged)
TOOLS and MATERIALS LIST:
1. All of the tools and materials used in the “easy way” .
2. Wire brush.
3. Metal epoxy such as JB Weld.
4. Dremel tool with fine grit sanding drums.
PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the lower rear plastic and floorboards.
2. Disconnect both rear break lines and vent tube from the swingarm.
3. Put a piece of tape over the vent to exclude contaminants.
4. Remove the 2 rear hose clamps that hold the axle shaft boot.
5. Slide the boot off the engine toward the swingarm.
6. Leave the tires attatched.
7. Break the 30mm nut (92210) loose with the power handle and cheater bar. Also break loose the right pivot-bolt (33032A). Don’t remove them yet.
8. Raise the machine up to where the rear tires are just off the ground and securely support the quad on it’s frame just ahead of the swingarm boot. Chock the front wheels for added stability.
9. Use a hydraulic floor jack to gently support the rear of the swingarm housing. It will also help to ratchet strap the diff to the jack to aid in moving the swingarm around.
10. Remove the lower shock bolt
11. Remove the left axle-bolt (33032) and the right axle-bolt (33032A).
12. Have your assistant grab the tires and wiggle the swingarm back away from the frame SLOWLY while you pry the axle yolk from the output shaft of the motor. Make sure the axle shaft comes off WITH the swingarm and does not pull out of the rear diff.
13. Be ready to catch the front of the swingarm when the axle slips off the engine output shaft.
14. Wire or tie the axle shaft to keep it engaged into the diff.
15. Remove the collars (92152A), O-rings (670), seals (92049), and bearings (92116).
16. Clean up the bearing housing bore with break cleaner and paper towels.
17. Remove the outer races from the swingarm with a slide hammer with the internal 3-arm set-up Skip to step 24.
18. Drain the rear diff oil.
19. If a slide hammer isn’t available, clean the inside of the swingarm in the axle area as good as possible without removing the axle from the rear diff. Tilt the swingarm down and catch the runoff in a pan. Plan on using a whole can of brake cleaner and squirting around the axle as good as you can. Here is a peek inside the swingarm looking toward the diff. with the axle removed.
20. Pull out the axle.
21. Find a ½” drive socket whose OD is approximately 1 3/8”. It has to be small enough to clear the inside step in the swingarm housing, but large enough to contact the outer race. You will also need a ½” extension approximately 18” long to reach thru the swingarm.
22. Knock out the race by tapping on the extension with a hammer and repeat for the other side.
23. Clean out the entire inside swingarm area as good as possible, and also clean up the pivot shaft bolts. Inspect the collars (92152A) and replace them if necessary.
24. I was lucky because the area of my bearing housing was only damaged in the area outboard of the bearing, where the seal resides.
25. Clean this area thoroughly by wire brush and brake cleaner.
26. Repair the bore with metal epoxy, such as J B Weld and insert a lightly greased new seal into the bore to ensure a smooth finish. A lightly greased outer race may also be used if you need to re-surface a large area, just beware that it’s going to be harder to remove after the epoxy cures. Don’t worry about excess epoxy squeezing out. Alloy it to dry at least the time recommended by the epoxy manufacturer. I would even suggest leaving it overnight at this point.
27. Remove the seal (or outer race) and clean up the excess material with a Dremel tool and fine grit sanding disc.
28. OPTIONAL- It is possible for debris to enter the bearing from inside the swingarm housing. I blocked this off by cutting some .010” thick brass shim stock into a disk and sealing it to the housing with silicone RTV. Others have reported that a Honda bearing cap will also work, but the shim stock is a little thinner and it doesn’t rob as much room in the bearing housing, so that’s what I used.
29. Tap in the new races, seat them fully against the housing. If you are doing step 23, seat the race quickly before the RTV cures.
30. Pack the bearings well with some molly (molybdenum disulfide) or marine grade grease. Pack all voids in the seals and install the collar into the seal. Wipe of excess grease from the collar and seal assembly. Locate the bearing in the housing, followed by the o-ring and then seat the seal into the housing. The o-ring is captured by the collar and held in place.
31. Coat the pivot bolts with anti-seize and set them close to the frame.
32. Slide the swingarm assembly back into its Normal position and slip the V-ring seals (optional) between the collar and the frame on each side. Orient the V-ring where the sealing lip touches the seal collar and not the frame.
33. Carefully align the bearing bore with the threaded hole in the frame. Tighten the pivot bolts, making sure that they seat into the bearing bore, otherwise they will just push the swingarm assembly over.
34. Tighten the right side pivot bolt to 112 ft-lbs.
35. Tighten the left pivot bolt (12mm Hex ) to 14 ft-lbs? can’t remember see manual.
36. Tighten the lock nut to 112 ft/lbs.
37. Clean any residual grease that may reside around the v-ring seals without violating the seal. Use caution when directing the blast from a brake cleaner can so that it doesn’t undermine the seal and wash out the grease trapped inside the V-ring. Don’t hit it full-blast.
38. Reconnect the fenders, floorboards, brake lines and vent tube.
39. Re-fill rear diff if necessary.
40. Ride.
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