ATVPT

All Terrain Vehicle Product Tests ATV Technical Magazine

CVT Belt Removal

Prairie 650 700 - Belt removal

Belt Removal

Difficulty rating 1 out of 10. It is so easy that it makes you feel silly.

1. Take cvt vent boot off.

2. Take bolts off cvt cover. You have to flex the front fender a bit to get one of them, but no big deal.

3. Lift cvt cover off and put it on seat. Since the wires are still attached, be careful not to yank. Use a rope, coat hanger or bungee to hold it out of your way. You can disconnect the wires, if you prefer.
 
4: The easiest way I have found to remove the belt is to remove the Primary Clutch. (Others prefer to roll the belt on by hand, but I have found this to be a pain. In more ways then one, {I have pinched my hand a few times}. So be careful if you try that way to install your belt, plus I feel it tends to stretch the belt a bit to.) You will need the clutch puller tool, which can be purchased from Dalton Industries or Ritter Racing. First thing you want to do is remove the bolt that holds the Primary Clutch on.When you remove the Primary Clutch remember the bolt is a left handed thread. Second insert the clutch puller tool which is right hand thread. Tighten until the clutch pulls off the shaft. With the clutch removed, I also rub a very small amount of high temperature grease on the shaft so it will slide on and off easy. When you remove the clutch the belt will slide off really easy. To re-install the belt just reverse these steps. Remember to always install the belt in the correct direction. Anytime you remove and replace a belt, always reinstall it the same direction you removed it.

5. See following sketch for belt width measurement.  Replace belt if it is less than 28.8mm. If it is right on 28.8, I would suggest changing it.


Belt deflection check



Belt deflection check

Difficulty rating 1.5 out of 10

1. Remove rear cvt vent boot and cvt cover. Hold cvt cover out of your way with coathanger or unplug connections and set aside.

2. Rotate pulleys to make sure belt is as far up on driven pulley as it wants to be.

3. Place a straight edge on top of belt and press with appoximately 13lbs on the top of the belt midway between pulleys. Use a fish scale if you want, but you may be able to use your thumb if you feel you can push just the right amount.

4. Measure distance between top of belt and straightedge. It should be 22mm to 27mm or .87" to 1.06" (the 360 belt spec is .79" to 1.06").



5. You may need to add or remove shims, as described lower in this article. As a rule of thumb, each 0.1mm (.004") of shim thickness that

you take out will decrease the belt deflection approximately 1.3mm (.051"). Use a calculator if you need it.

Note, some 650's came with only one 1.4mm shim, some came with two 0.6mm shims, others may be different. It may be a good idea to purchase one of each shim thickness just to be sure that you have enough available for the adjustment. Note: a large percentage of us are using just one .6mm shim, while some of us are using no shims. No shims makes a new belt mighty tight, and it squeals at idle, but it will last a VERY long time that way.

Belt tension adjustment (driven pulley reshim) procedure.

Difficulty rating 2.5 out of 10 (possibly 8 out of 10 if you don't have an air impact and my pulley compressor). Tools required: 10mm socket wrench, 27mm socket wrench, phillips screwdriver, flatheat screwdriver (small head), pulley compressor tool (see below), circlip tool,torque wrench (at least 69ft-lbs).

Note: Remove=ing shims or using thinner shims makes the belt tighter. Shims have no affect on tops speed, since they are loose and not doing anything except at idle. I recommend getting some shims ahead of time to make sure you have enough to make the adjustment. Shims come in .03 .06mm, .08mm, 1.0mm, and 1.4mm. I can't say which ones you will need. I bought one of each before doing this, but didn't use any of them

pn# 92026-0034 = 0.30
pn# 92026-1569 = 0.60
pn# 92026-1617 = 0.80
pn# 92026-1565 = 1.00
pn# 92026-1570 = 1.40


1. Remove belt.

2. Remove nut on driven pulley with an impact wrench, or buy the pulley holding tool ( Dalton Industries or Ritter Racing). You may also be able to loosen the pulley nut by placing piece of wood between the knobs on the pulley and the frame or floorboard. 

3. Remove pulley (driven, secondary) from shaft (it should slide off, if it doesn't it may be rusted on). If it does not slide off, try gently prying with a large screwdriver while rotating the pulley. Be careful not to bend the pulley. some people with a rusted on pulley have worked their pulley for an hour, gently prying, before it came off. A lightly greased shaft ( high temp grease) prevents this rust.

4. Mark the two halves of the pulley so that you can put them back together later with the same orientation. Compress pulley with a press or with a pulley tool, (I  made mine from threaded rod and a piece of aluminum channel with a hole through it). 

5. Remove Circlip with a cirlcip removal tool. You only need to get it out of it's groove, the spring compressor may not let you remove it completely.

6. Relax pulley compressor. Remove spring and retainer. Remember how each piece fits together.

7. Using small sharp screwdriver, lift out 4 steel buttons from the spiral slot inside of the pulley

8. Slide pulley sheaves apart.

9. Remove or add shims. As a rule of thumb, removing 0.1mm (.004") of shim thickness decreases deflection approximately 1.3mm (.051"). Note, some 650's came with only one 1.4mm shim, some came with two 0.6mm shims, others may be different. It may be a good idea to purchase one of each shim thickness just to be sure that you have enough available for the adjustment. Shims come in .06mm, .08mm, 1.0mm, and 1.4mm.

Bottom Line: 
Say you are at 27mm, and your shim measures 0.3mm.
You take out the 0.3mm shim.
Your new deflection is going to be about 24.9mm.

10. Clean and use some moly grease on the sliding surfaces of the sheaves and seal to make sure sheaves slide easy. Use a little high temperature grease to hold buttons in place when reassembling. Do not use excessive grease since it may cause the belt to slip and overheat.

11. Reassembly is essentially the reverse of dissassembly.  Lightly grease the shaft prior to installing the pulley to prevent rust (or it could be very hard to remove it next time). Cleaning dust, mud or belt dust out of the cover, vents and pulleys is advisable.

12. Torque nut to 93 N.m (69ft-lb). Here is a good way to hold the driven pulley without a special tool. You place a piece of wood (2 by 4) between the frame and pulley. I use this every time to hold the pulley from turning. But be careful (or just use an impact wrench), since the nut takes more torque to remove than torque back on.


@Be careful not to create any prying forces in the holes (using other pulley holding methods), or you may break the sheave@

@Very light application of high temperature grease on the shaft, or it may rust on@

ATV CVT Clutch Facts and How To Modify by Dalton Industries

http://www.daltonindustries.com/atv/faqs.htm